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That would cost like $20 grand

@@bend4852 Hell, I can't get a roof done for 20 grand. Double it at least.

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seal your basement, lead water away from your house, mostly done

8:10 Minneapolis, MN

The water flows through the holes in the concrete blocks, under our patented Diamond Drainage Board, over the footing, into the drainage field and into the rigid drain-tile.

Thanks, Betsy! You made our day!

:) No, our voiceover guy didn't do "How It's Made" ... but he appreciates the compliment.

That works well when you initially build the house. However, if you're trying to retrofit a basement with a waterproofing system the exterior is far and away the most expensive way to do it because you have to deal with landscaping, decks, and sidewalks. In some cases removal and replacement of some or all of these things is necessary. The University of Minnesota has concluded that an interior, sub-slab system -- like we install -- offers an effective system and cost efficiencies that make it the best choice for retrofit.. BTW, we have also installed exterior solutions.

So tired of seeing these comments on these interior waterproofing videos. My house is over a hundred years old and I’m having internal waterproofing done. Left side of my house is a foot and a half from a side road, right side of the house has a new wrap around sidewalk, back of the house has a big deck and patio, front of the house has a covered porch and new landscaping. External waterproofing is not an option!

These companies charge at least 3 times what an interior one is. I've had prices of $10k for interior and $25k for exterior. Plus I'd be responsible for the mess and replanting my plants/shrubs. Likely removing them too.

Why is inside the wrong way? Just about every exterior drain tile fails over time. Also exterior doesnt necessarily prevent hydrostatic pressure under a basement floor

The University of Minnesota tends to disagree. A system that sits on the footer suffers from the lack of a steady downward slope to the sump basin. And since footers are supposed to be level the water doesn't flow very well. We have video of water pooled in systems like these. They are ripe for mold and mildew problems. On the other hand, a system at the base of the footer, with a layer of washed rock in the bottom of the trench doesn't clog. We've been doing it since 1977.

Standard Water Control Systems which is why you’re supposed to pitch the system towards the sump pump. Getting water to flow down hill isn’t difficult. Doing it since 1977 only hurts your case. It’s old technology.

Well, first, placing a drainage channel on top of the footing means you can't maintain the structural integrity of the floor. You can't put the cement back to the same thickness because the drainage channel is taking up that space. If you do put the cement back to the same thickness, there will be a 4" or 5" wide bevel in the floor (a few inches thick) which is pretty inconvenient when the homeowner wants to put their furniture back in the room. They're none too happy when they have to leave desks, dressers, beds, etc. 4" or 5" inches from the wall when they want them up against it. Pitching the system will only exacerbate the problem. Our Patented Diamond Drainage Board (new technology) ensures the structural integrity of the floor right up to the wall without the problematic bevel or lack of structural integrity. We've replaced many, many systems that sit on the footer because they don't tend to work very well or they leave a bevel in the floor, or both. Another problem with top of the footer systems is much of the water simply runs under the drainage channel, over the footer and into the soil beneath the floor where it can come up through cracks or be drawn up through the porous concrete via the stack effect. Water will always seek the lowest level it can. That's why we capture it down low next to the bottom of the footer. Also, footers are supposed to be level. A system that sits on top of a level footer doesn't drain properly. I can't tell you how many of theses systems we've replaced because water simply sits in the channel. Further, we use rigid pvc draintile with large holes that can't be bridged by minerals in the water and maintain a steady, smooth downhill slope to the sump basket. The flexible, corrugated draintile often used is a problem because the holes that allow the water in are small and easily bridged by minerals and cannot maintain a smooth slope down to the sump basin. Also, the corrugations fill with water and it just sits there, never making it to the sump basin at all. In our experience, homeowners are primarily interested in waterproofing systems that, 1. keep their basements dry and, 2. allow them to replace their furniture as if we had never been there. New technology is great, if it meets the needs of the homeowner. That's the only thing that matters. Our transferable warranty, good for the life of the foundation, simply gives the homeowner additional peace of mind.

@@StandardwaterControlSystemsInkHow big are the holes in the bottom of your PVC draintile? and how big are the holes dug into the wall next to the footer for hydrostatic pressure drainage?

It leads down to a bubbler at the far end

That works well when you initially build the house. However, if you're trying to retrofit a basement with a waterproofing system the exterior is far and away the most expensive way to do it because you have to deal with landscaping, decks, and sidewalks. In some cases removal and replacement of some or all of these things is necessary. The University of Minnesota has concluded that an interior, sub-slab system -- like we install -- offers an effective system and cost efficiencies that make it the best choice for retrofit.. BTW, we have also installed exterior solutions.

We have a vapor barrier that we install on some jobs when water is intruding from higher on the wall. Here in the upper midwest we mostly see water coming in at the joint where the floor and the wall meet or up through cracks in the floor. And, yes, we use 4" pipe.

Jay Kay search for hydro armor systems They have information and likely a video which can assist you

No such thing as a footer-less walk-in basement and if one does exist then it is a miracle it is still standing mostly intact if still standing at all. Other house foundations either have no below grade basement or a ground level which is not much of an issue with water unless it is in a flood plain area/zone and use other forms and methods of water drainage such as a simple flow vent that allows water to expel but not get in.

Joshua79C C did I miss where footer-less walk-in was specifically referenced? But besides that point I can tell you for sure there are foundations under a lot of homes in pa and md which have no footer and plenty of room to walk as the foundation was built far thicker and more robustly than that of modern standards. This was necessary as all they had was rocks. So to say no such thing is a far cry from an accurate statement.

Oh, so you were referring to the non standard walls I live in such a home in MA currently, it is a duplex and rent is nice, used to live in another house with similar foundation but never bothered to or even notice lack of what modern foundation standard requires, I stand corrected, was basing of the houses I had experience in having installing retrofit waterproofing systems in for others when I did that line of work, not having to do any in these old fashioned large field stone mason walls if at all and as had said never really notice if it had a footer as you see with concrete wall foundations. Then again homes that used to have these foundations and since been upgraded with more modern poured or blocks of concrete now have the footing system and the home owner or renter now has a conditioned and usable space for living or storage use or perhaps a shop/hobby space of sorts. I stand corrected

You will see footerless row houses in US East Coast cities like Washington, DC. They were built in the 1800's and have foundation walls built of brick that go down below basement floors about 3'. Many such homes even still have dirt basements.

Thanks! We're glad you like it.

Might be best to do it on the exterior side of the wall. Which would be very hard if you attempt yourself, depending on the depth of the footer. Another option is to use an interior drain system designed for your type of slab and foundation. Look into a baseboard drainage system. You can do a Google search for it to find more info. Hope this helps.

We'd be happy to talk with you. Please contact us via our website www.standardwater.com

Jonasinc1 Did you find an answer? I'm researching different companies & the methods they use before hiring because I'm very protective of my foundation! I also worry about digging below footer grade to get fall @ basin & washing dirt out from under footer! Thanks in advance

Kind of hard for me to picture what you are saying but footing as shown you want to place the drain tile on top as shown, its how most are installed, DIY kits sit atop the slab and use a sealing caulk to keep water from getting into the main area which is a nice simple but not very practical for worst case water issues I have much experience in installing such system as this with gravel and pipe to properly waterproof where the ground/geology allows for and gets particularly saturated aka logged/stored. But as they showed you want the gravel with pipe Next to the footing, not under as it would compromise the structural integrity of the foundation, but not above the footing height so you still get at least 4 inches of slab thickness, even with the drain tile installed also as shown.

Use 6" jdrain. Go ahead and dig your trench, taco style your high side and then run it vertical. Use plenty of Rock. Then once you rock to grade put a covebase on top of your rock and replace concrete. The covebase will allow any water that runs down your walls thru a crack to enter your drain. When it comes to a sump pit over dig it and use plenty of Rock, it'll allow more water to enter and fill up your pit slower meaning your pump will run less.